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Rebecca's Recipe for Success
from-scratch advice:
Pastry
dough is one
thing,
but if you yearn for the crisp, green
variety you’d better
have
business smarts. Either
hire a
business partner or obtain a
business
degree
to
complement culinary skills. Work in a
professional
kitchen before
opening up your
own place to see
if
you enjoy the daily grind of that
environment. Organize
your recipes on the
computer. Don’t get
discouraged if an original
recipe flops at
first. Test, tweak, and retest your
concoctions
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“As far as dessert goes, the gooier the better,” Rebecca
Rather says with a
slight Southern drawl. She should know. With her
popular Fredericksburg café,
the Rather Sweet Bakery, and the recent
publication of her second cookbook, The
Pastry Queen Christmas, this
born-and-bred Texas gal is up to her elbows in
dough. Her crowning
glory? A treat she calls Texas Big Hairs Lemon-Lime
Meringue Tarts.
“Folks can’t get enough of them, and they also love my chicken
pot pies
in cream-cheese crust,” she says. Rebecca started cooking out of
necessity at age 10. “My mother was sick, and the housekeeper’s only
specialty
was mayonnaise-and-tomato sandwiches,” she recalls.
Fast-forward several years,
and she was catering neighborhood functions
in Houston with her daughter,
Frances, on her hip. Working as executive
pastry chef for one of the city’s top
restaurateurs, Tony Vallone, she
realized she’d found her true vocation.
After seven years in
Fredericksburg, she couldn’t be happier. She bakes
daily and still
finds time to tend to a menagerie of pets and a massive herb
garden.
She recently opened a new restaurant, Rebecca’s Table, just down the
street from the bakery. Everything from mayonnaise to sauces to bread
is made
from scratch. She and her business partner, Dan Kamp, ran
the bakery without
a staff the first year. “But the town really
embraced us, and we thrived. Being
in business is always a challenge,
but we’ve never had any sticky
problems.” No, “sticky” applies
solely to the lip-smacking smorgasbord of
goodies in Rebecca’s bakery
case. “Oh my gosh, I’m still trying to lose 20
pounds I gained with the
Christmas cookbook!” she says with a laugh. “And I’m
hoping to do a
candy book next, so I’m really in trouble.”
(a) Apple-spice cake drizzled
with
caramel
makes customers crave every moist
morsel. (b) A
scrumptious panna cotta from Rebecca’s holiday
cookbook is topped
with
hibiscus syrup and dried fruit. (c)
“Baking should be all about
having fun,” Rebecca says.
(d)
Rather Sweet exudes Texas
charm, with old farm tables and a chalkboard
menu. Rebecca employs a
staff of 24, here and at her new
restaurant. (e) Tantalizing treats await
customers. (f) Cute
cookie bags.
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(g) Loyal customers chat a spell at Rather Sweet in historic
Fredericksburg. (h) The flyer says it all. (i) Rebecca’s latest cookbook.
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature 3 cups
sugar 2 tablespoons light molasses 6 large eggs 3 cups cake flour 1
1/4 teaspoons baking soda 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons ground
cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1
teaspoon ground ginger 1 cup sour cream 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and
shredded (about 1 1/2 cups) 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 tablespoon
grated fresh ginger (optional)
Icing 1 14-ounce bag caramels 4 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 2
tablespoons plus 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature 1
teaspoon vanilla extract 3 cups powdered sugar 1 cup (8 ounces) mascarpone
(Italian cream cheese, available at most grocery stores) 2 cups pecan
pieces, toasted (optional)
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Apple-Spice Layer Cake with Caramel Swirl Icing
from The Pastry Queen Christmas Here’s a cake that showcases the flavors and
smells of Christmas. This three-layer extravaganza has a touch of molasses and
shredded apple to keep it moist. As the cake bakes, it fills the house with a
fragrance that beats the most expensive holiday-scented candle.
1. Place one oven rack in the bottom third of the oven and a second rack in
the top third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°. Grease three 9-inch cake
pans with butter or cooking spray, then line each with a parchment paper round
and grease the rounds. 2. Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and
fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber
spatula. Beat in the molasses. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating between each
addition. In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking soda, salt, and
ground spices to blend. Add the flour mixture and sour cream alternately to the
batter. (Start and end with the flour mixture, adding the flour mixture in 3
increments and the sour cream in 2 increments.) After each addition, mix on low
speed just to combine the ingredients. Stir in the shredded apples, vanilla, and
ginger. 3. Spoon the batter (it will be thick) evenly into the prepared
pans. Place two cake pans side by side on one rack and the third on the other.
Stagger the cake layers on the oven racks so that no layer is directly over
another. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until firm to the touch. Monitor the layers
carefully for doneness; each one may be done at a different time. Remove from
the oven and let cool in the pans for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the edges
of the pans and unmold the cakes onto wire racks to cool completely, 15 to 30
minutes, before frosting. 4. The cakes can be kept frozen, tightly wrapped
in plastic wrap, for up to 3 weeks. Defrost them at room temperature before
unwrapping. Frost immediately. 5. To make the icing: In a medium
stainless-steel bowl, combine the unwrapped caramels, 2 tablespoons of the
cream, and the 2 tablespoons butter. Place over a saucepan filled with 2 inches
of ‰ simmering water. Stir the caramel mixture until smooth. Remove the bowl
from the heat. Let cool, stirring the mixture every few minutes until cool to
the touch, about 20 minutes. (If the mixture is too warm, it will melt the
buttercream frosting when it is stirred in later.) 6. While the caramel is
cooling, make the buttercream: Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat the 1 1/2 cups butter on medium-high speed for about 1 minute,
until pale in color. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons cream and the vanilla and
powdered sugar, and beat for 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the
mascarpone and beat on medium-low speed until incorporated. Do not overbeat the
mascarpone, or it may separate. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooled caramel mixture to
drizzle over the cake once it is frosted. Stir the remainder of the caramel into
the frosting, using large strokes to create caramel swirls throughout. Don’t
stir it too much, or the ribbons of caramel will disappear. 7. Place one cake
layer on a serving plate and spread a thick blanket of frosting on top. Add the
second layer and spread thickly with frosting. Add the third layer and cover the
top and sides of the cake with an even layer of frosting. Use a small spoon to
drizzle the reserved 1/4 cup of caramel over the top of the cake. Pat on the
toasted pecan pieces to cover the sides of the cake.
Tip: Using the proper tools for cutting frosted layer cakes ensures that
individual servings look as good as they taste. I use a large serrated knife
dipped in hot water for cutting. I wipe the knife off with a clean dishcloth
after each piece, which ensures that every cut is as clean as the
first.
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