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Lisa Toland's entire family was artistic. Her grandmother was a
milliner and her great-grandfather was a tailor. The person who most
influenced her was her mother, who sold hand-knit sweaters and jewelry after the
family came to the United States from New Zealand, where Lisa was
born.“I enjoyed watching my mother design jewelry and often went with her to
craft shows and suppliers to buy materials,” Lisa says. “It was so exciting for
me, and I think that’s why I always wanted to be an artist.” After
studying jewelry making in college, Lisa went to Paris for a year, where she
made her first bag, almost accidentally. “I couldn’t make jewelry there because
I had no way of soldering metal,” she recalls. “I wanted to work with the
materials I was comfortable with, so I started stringing beads on wire.”
(a) “In the year I lived in Paris, I worked in a little store and sold wholesale
fashion accessories. I’ve always felt an affinity for the French.” (b)
Lisa’s bags are made of knitted and crocheted mesh decorated with beaded
wire.
(c) Lisa found this turn-of-the-century encyclopedia of women’s crafts, while
scouring Parisian bookshops for ideas. “The book inspired me. The kind of
work it depicts—the needlepoint, the embroidery—is so beautifully
sophisticated. In a lot of ways, we’ve lost that. We don’t work with our
hands the way those women did because we have so many other, less creative ways
of filling our time, like watching TV.” Lisa has modeled some of her purses on
patterns she found in this book and others like it that fill her studio.
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Lisa’s bags require much trial and error. “It’s not like working with fiber. The
wire is less forgiving; you constantly have to take something apart before you
can figure out how it will work.” The decorative flower medallions, (d),
were in a constant state of flux before she declared them finished. “I played
around with them, changing the number of stitches or the centers many times
before they seemed right.”
(e) “I’m inspired by early 20th-century
magazines and catalogs. That period was so rich artistically and historically.”
When she begins a new piece, Lisa pages through her collection of vintage
publications until she finds a design that entrances her. Each piece is labor
intensive, often taking a week to plan and execute and requiring as many as five
assistants to help fill orders.
(f) Lisa’s beaded, embellished frames
add charm to photos from every era. In her downtown Los Angeles studio,
Lisa has 300 jars of colored beads. “They’re pretty organized because I’m always
concerned that, in an earthquake, they’d come tumbling out if I didn’t take
care.” She prefers to work at night. “There’s an absolute quiet about the late
hours that opens up a space for creative inspiration to come through.”
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