As the buzz finally dies down about Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil—John Berendt’s Southern gothic bestseller set in Savannah—a new, stronger, and more lasting identity is emerging: Savannah as an art center. And one of the major forces since 1978 has been SCAD, the country’s largest art and design college. "It’s amazing," attests Jennifer of One Fish Two Fish. "SCAD will take a big, dilapidated structure in a questionable area and transform it. Whenever that happens, investors start buying up everything around. SCAD can make a neighborhood. They’re forward thinking, and they instill confidence in their students."

(j) Housed in an adapted early 20th-century pharmacy, SCAD’s Gryphon Tea Room boasts all 14 original stained-glass windows with a mortar-and-pestle theme.
(k) Indulge your writerly side at la paperie, purveyors of hard-to-find European stationery and journals.  (l) Satisfy your sweet tooth at Paris Market & Brocante. (m) Limited-edition plates by Working Class Studio with illustrations by the late Ben Morris are used in the Gryphon Tea Room. 
(n) It’s not your traditional floral shop. Madame Chrysanthemum’s Asian-style arrangements incorporate found objects. (o) Tupelo honey, a prized local specialty, displayed in fluted bottles at One Fish Two Fish.

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